Guitar Lessons

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Contact for Guitar Lessons

Hi, my name is Brendan Smith. I'm currently teaching guitar lessons. I'm 29 and have been playing guitar since I was 14. I started with the violin at age 6. The most common question I am asked at the start is what do I need to play guitar? I think the most important thing is the desire to learn. Next of course, is the guitar itself. I can advise you about that, but if you don't have one yet, I have guitars and other materials you can use for the lessons.

Rates:$20 for a half hour, $35 for an hour

Courses:I have lots of teaching materials depending on your level. If you're just beginning then my method of teaching will probably be very helpful to you since I make sure you have a solid foundation before you are thrown in the deep end. When you are ready for the deep end, you will already be comfortable in the water and know how to swim.

I specialize in finger style guitar. I can teach any level of finger style guitar from beginner to advanced. I can teach you advanced picking techniques, patterns, alternate tunings, finger strumming, flamenco, classical, rock, pop, and folk. This is the type of music I like to listen to and play, so this has become my area of expertise.

If you want to learn rock, blues, or jazz 'lead guitar' soloing, or other 'pick' styles I'm probably not the best person for that, though I can get you ready for whatever style you end up branching off into. Lead guitar is not a type of guitar, but a method of playing the guitar.

I will have a course picked out for you, supplemented by custom excercises, depending on your level. Of course I will also 'show' you 1 on 1 otherwise you may as well get a book. :) By watching you, listening, and asking you questions I can help guide you towards your goals. I enjoy teaching, and sharing my experiences and knowledge with interested people, so don't hesitate to ask questions as well.

If you're interested, I can answer any questions you might have if you email me or call me at the following:

brendan@kadenzamusic.com

PHONE: (989) 832 - 8507 ask for "Brendan"

Questions

If you have any questions about what you are learning, or if something confuses you, let me know right away. Unless you tell me, I am just guessing at what you know and understand, and what you don't; by what I hear and see. While the confusion remains, progress is hindered. So please feel free to communicate whatever is on your mind. There are no stupid questions, so don't feel ashamed.

Types of Guitars

There are two main categories of guitars: acoustic and electric.

Acoustic just means that the sound is made naturally without any electrical amplification or modification. In order to amplify the sound, they have a large hollow body.

Electric guitars are amplified with electricity and the sound can be further modified. Nowadays acoustic guitars can be fitted with pickups and microphones, so you can do the same things you do with electric guitars.

Let's start this by taking a look at the three main types of guitars:

This is an acoustic nylon string classical guitar, also known as the Spanish Guitar:

An easy way to tell the difference between the two different acoustic guitars is by looking at the shape of the body and the tuning pegs at the top. The classical has a more rounded body top, and pegs that come in from the sides of the head. The strings are made from animal gut or nylon cores wrapped with steel or bronze. The materials can vary. Just remember, classical strings are fibers at the core. Classical guitars are light in construction and designed for low tension fiber core strings such as nylon or animal gut. Never string a classical guitar with steel strings, you will damage your guitar. There are however specially designed metal strings available for classical guitar with low tension.

An acoustic steel string guitar:

The pegs, where the strings attach on the head, stick straight up from the head on most acoustic steel strings. Also the top body section is not usually rounded like a classical. Usually, only steel strings have pick guards, such as the black one in this picture. The core and wrappings of the strings are made from metal which produces much higher tension than nylon or gut. High tension means it will require more strength to hold shapes and play it. However, this high tension means the sound will be louder and brighter.

The contruction of the steel string guitar is meant for high tension strings in order to drive the top and make the body resonate properly. The woods are usually heavier and there is a metal rod going through the neck to add support called a truss rod. Classical guitars don't have a truss rod and the construction is much lighter to make resonation much easier. Metal strings give a much louder and brighter sound than nylon. The sound of steel string guitars also sustains longer like a piano. Nylon is more subtle and delicate sounding and sustains less. It is also much easier for a beginner to fret and hold down hand positions on a nylon string classical. This is why I would recommend a classical guitar as your first guitar, until you build your strength.

An electric guitar:

These don't need a hollow body to amplify the sound since they use electricity to amplify the sound. Thus, they are usually thin, flat, and completely solid wood or other material, or slightly hollow. The strings are made from metal just like the steel string acoustic. Since the strings are made of metal the sound can be "picked up" using special magnets called pickups.

"A vibrating steel (or other ferro-magnetic metal) string causes a flux in the magnetic field created by a pickup's coil, a flux that produces an alternating (AC) voltage (a signal) that is transmitted to the electronic amplifier where it is enlarged then sent to the amplifier's speaker." - www.stratcollector.com

What kind of Guitar should I get?

I recommend learning on a classical nylon string guitar fitted with light gauge, light tension, strings. Lighter gauge strings produce less tension than heavy or medium gauge strings and require less force to fret (hold down), making them ideal for beginners and especially children. Idealy you want to use the thickest gauge, highest tension, strings you can comfortably use without putting too much tension on the guitar top. Start with Extra Light, if you get comfortable with that, move up to Light. Once you have become comfortable with Light move on to Medium Light, and so forth. At some point you won't want to go any further because each guitar has its ideal string tension it requires to maximize the sound. If you put too much tension then it can be counterproductive and actually restrict the guitar top from resonating to its potential. It depends on the unique construction of your unique guitar.

The nylon strings of a classical produce less tension when tightened on a guitar than a steel string guitar. This translates to easier playing and softer targets for your fingers. The less pressure you have to exert with your fingers to produce the desired sound, the easier it will be for you. You will be able to practice longer and in more comfort with a nylon string guitar.

Make sure you don't string a Nylon "Classical" guitar with steel strings and vice versa. The high tension steel is not designed for the unsupported neck of the classical nylon string guitar. The steel string guitars are not designed to be played with nylon strings either, though you won't harm your steel string guitar by putting nylon strings on it; the nylon being less tension than the normal steel. If you are unsure of what kind of strings you need for your guitar, ask me at your lesson what you should get. I can recommend a certain type and brand for your guitar.

Practice Guide

I have three modes of playing:

One is the practice mode, where I try to learn a new skill. This is when you are mastering the tools you will use.
Another is performance mode where I combine what I learned in practice mode with how I feel at the moment. All the different techniques and skills you acquired in practice become the "colors" available to you when performing. You use your skills to recreate or create artwork on the spot.
Then there is experimental mode where I just try new and crazy things and create new patterns or techniques. This is the mode where anything goes, and nothing is wrong. This is the time to try it the wrong way just to see what it sounds like, or to change things to match the way you feel inside and make it more personal. This is the time to throw as much paint or as little paint on the canvas as you want in whatever combinations you want. I think I have the most fun in experimental mode, but in order to get to this stage, we need those skills gained through disciplined practice.

I'm going to talk a lot about practice because this is where people falter the most. They get excited about learning something new and then realize it takes a lot of hard work, and sacrifice of time, to progress. However, work can be fun if that is the work you enjoy.

I won't be upset with you if you don't practice, but I want you to make the most of your lessons. I never wanted to practice violin, but I never had to be told to practice guitar. So perhaps you just have to find the right instrument for you. If you want, just schedule the lessons one at a time when you are ready to go to the next stage.

The only way to progress is through concentration, effort, and practice. As the saying goes, "Practice makes Perfect". Practice will be difficult and at times frustrating. When you practice you are adding new skills, knowledge, or techniques to your playing and refining your dexterity. I can show you how to learn but I can't learn for you. However, I've been where you're standing and I can help you see the obstacles in your path. I can also steer you away from bad habits that you will have to undo later on to progress further.

In order to be able to have lots of tools to use and fun with playing an instrument we have to go through the practice mode. If you like to learn, you like the guitar, and you like music, then I don't see why practice shouldn't be fun. Practice should be fairly steady and regular so that you're not always backtracking and re-establishing what you have already done. If you have lessons weekly, I would recommend at least 1 hour of practice every other day. Your guitar, your body, and mind have to warm up before you can make progress in your practice. The more practice the better, though you should stop if your fingers start to hurt. Practicing a few times a week for at least a half hour is the minimum. For example, it's better to spread your practice out into 30-60 minute intervals than to practice 3 hours in one day before the lessons. ;)

I think of it as a time to discover the potential inside you. It's a language not restricted by words, where you can express your creative side. You are learning about yourself. Just take it one step at a time and don't get frustrated when you can't learn a song in one day.

"With every mistake we must surely be learning" -George Harrison

Learning takes time. I recommend practicing at least 15 minutes every day or 30 minutes every other day to keep things fresh in your mind. An hour to a few hours is the ideal amount of time to practice each day. When you go too long without practicing your brain will start to forget and your dexterity will suffer. You will spend your time regaining lost ground instead of advancing into new territory. In order to advance at a steady rate you need to keep with it.
Practice should involve learning. When you practice, concentrate and try to do it right. If you are doing something over and over and at some point become distracted, lose concentration, or become tired, you should stop and continue another day. Or just play another song and come back to it later. Once you are tired you will not make meaningful progress that you will retain. You may also end up hurting yourself.
Practice Slowly. Whatever you practice is what your brain will retain. So if you're rushing through something playing it with mistakes then that is how you will perform. In order to correct this we need to slow down. Learning and perfection can't be rushed. If you need to slow down to a crawl in order to do it right, then do so. It's better to play slow the right way, than fast the wrong way. In the beginning the learning must be done slowly so your brain can have the time and space it needs to grasp the problem and solve it. If you play things too fast when practicing, errors will go unnoticed and uncorrected. Speed comes with time and practice. Try to do things correctly when practicing. If you start to lose concentration take a break.
Painful Fingers or Wrist. If your fingers start to hurt take a break, your body is telling you something is wrong and you should stop. A little at a time is better than a lot at once. Eventually you will build thick calluses on your left "fretting" hand. This will take time and should not be rushed. Routine practice will ensure that you do in fact build these calluses that will ease your playing. The problem might also be that the strings you are using are too heavy for you. Switch to a lighter gauge or the lightest gauge, you will feel a big difference. Also, you could be making it harder on yourself by playing in an awkward and bad position. That brings me to the next point.
Proper Position. Practice in the position I show you during the lesson. If you don't have the proper support structures you can use a stack of books or other mass to create it. If you don't practice in the proper position you may strain your wrist or hurt yourself. To avoid this, always practice in the proper positions that I will show you. The focus here is to minimize the bending and tension in the hands, wrist, and body. You want to be comfortable when you're playing. You want efficiency of effort. Playing in the proper position will enable you to play chords and shapes with the proper and efficient use of force behind it.
Using a Metronome. A metronome can be a useful tool for learning to steady yourself and play in time with the music. It's also a good way to test where your trouble spots are and focus on those.
Focus on Trouble Spots.To make practice time more efficient, focus on the parts of the music you are having trouble with. If you can play the entire song perfectly but have problems with one section, then practice the one section you have trouble with. Aim for being able to play the trouble spot ten times in a row the same way without deviation. If you deviate then your brain has not solidified what you have learned. Give yourself breaks and come back to the trouble spots again later. Sometimes you need a day of rest before it sinks in after a good practice session. Try to include the bar before and after the trouble section so that when you incorporate it back into the entire song you will be familiar with the transitions.

Nail Care

It is very important in finger-style guitar to be aware of and nurture the nails of the picking hand, usually the Right Hand. The nails of the picking hand should be long enough so that when you look at your palm straight on the nails are visible slightly over the finger tips. Any longer and the nails can catch on the strings and hinder your playing.

The nails of the opposite fretting hand, usually the Left Hand, should be cut short so they don't interfere with fretting.

The Nails are comparable to the violin bow or the brushes of a painter. They are tools by which we are better able to play the instrument and produce a variety of sounds. As such, we must make sure to look after them as we would any other tools. This will not be so important if you are a beginner and decide to move on to using a plastic pick for example. When you begin you will be using only one finger. It will become more of an issue as you progress and require more fingers "picks".

Things to keep in mind:

Be aware of your nails during any activity such as washing dishes, washing your hands, bathing, or playing sports.
Nails will be dried and weakened by using detergents and strong soaps. Try to not use strong soaps on your picking hand and use them sparingly and carefully(I like natural oil based soaps available at health shops); avoid soap contact with the picking nails. Shampoo is a mild soap. When you shampoo use only your left hand or fretting hand.
Use a fine file to smooth any jagged edges or snags that may cause the nail to rip off.
File your nails to produce an optimal sound or nurture their natural shape with a fine file to remove any potential snags. This optimal shape is something I can show you. We all have different nail shapes so it may be slightly different for you.
Eat a healthy diet to produce strong nails.
Let them grow long enough for a good sound and no longer. Just past the finger line when viewing your palm is a good starting point. If they are too long they are more prone to breakage and can actually hinder your playing speed and sound. I find steel strings require longer nails than nylon for the optimum sound.
Avoid chlorinated water. If you go swimming in a pool, put natural oil such as Coconut oil, Jojoba oil, Avocado oil, etc. or other non-chemical lubricant on them first.
You do not need to oil or lubricate your nails except for special circumstances like I just mentioned. They will be strong and healthy just by following the above steps. If you really need to, or if you want to try and improve dry and brittle nails, try 'pure' natural conditioning oils such as; Almond, Coconut, Avocado, or Jojoba. You can find these in health shops. Avoid products with alcohols.
Mangore.com Nail Care

Online Tuners and Tools

At the proper stage in your development you will learn how to tune your guitar with no assistance or with minimal assistance. Until that time, here are some tools that can help you: